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Okay, so it doesn't have as much cocoa solids in it as other types of chocolate. It might not be the grandest, or the most expensive either. But for a vast majority of British thirty-somethings, Cadbury's Dairy Milk is the quintessential comfort food.

It's the look of the thing, you see? That stylish purple and white wrapper, the rich and opulent purple 'silver' foil, the smell which carries throughout a ten metre radius of the bar. And, of course, the notion that this stuff is absolutely, and categorically, not to share.

And it's everywhere too. Those two glasses pouring 'a glass and a half of full-cream dairy milk' are a universal symbol for pleasure, as much recognized (in Britain at any rate) as the Coca-Cola symbol, and much less redolent of huge multi-million dollar companies barging across the globe. (Incidentally, 'dairy milk' has always bothered me. Is it possible to get milk not from a dairy? Thinking about it, if it is, I don't want to know about it.) Not only that, but Cadbury's also advertises and supports Coronation Street, occasionally with plain old marvellous dairy milk. And we love them for it. Actually, I adore them for it. As do dentists, no doubt.

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