The weavers of Hakata-ori textiles are known for 8 different types of patterned fabrics. Most are used for obi weaving, which is what Hakata is famous for. They do however have several patterns kimono fabric and also some for gauzy materials.
Kenjo / Modified Kenjo
This is the most recognizable pattern, which is present only on
Go-shiki Kenjo obi. They have a solid-colored background overlayed by geometric patterns and stripes. These designs were based on traditional Hakata
Buddhist altar items. Kenjo is done with a warp rib weave and Modified Kenjo is done with a plain weave. A
warp rib weave is done by pulling thread lengthwise and crossing it with the
woof (horizontal threads). The warp are the "filling" threads. Usually, heavy yarn is used or many yarns gathered together, then weaved as normal with the woof. This gives the fabric a slight ridged effect in one direction. Good examples of the texture are
courduroy,
taffeta, and
shantung.
Hira Hakata
This was originally developed in the Hakata region. It too uses a warp rib weave, the only difference being this fabric uses silk threads.
Kando
This is for obi with vertical stripes, or
plaid designs. This is usually done on a
Jacquard loom or
dobby loom. The basic weaving is a modified version of a
twill weave or
satin weave. A twill weave is made by weaving warp and woof yarn in a progressive alternation. This makes a diagonal effect on the
face of the fabric (right side). A satin weave has yarn that is woven in such a way there isn't really a visible pattern of interlacing the threads. This gives a smooth and shiny surface to the fabric. Usually the warp yarns float over the woof. The fabric is even more shiny if silk yarn is used.
So-uke
This is for obis with multiple weaves, also done with silk yarn. It is usually done on a
Jacquard loom. The design is formed by raising and lowering the
loom. The weavers call this
uketate or "raised warp".
Leno
This uses a very tight weave to make more complicated geometric patterns. In this weave, two or more
warp (vertical) yarns are twisted around each other while they are woven with the
woof (horizontal) yarns. This prevents the woof yarn from slipping out of position, and makes a very secure weave. Usually the finished product is very sheer, but durable. Many
curtains are made of this material, because it is so light and airy. The Japanese call it
e-yokoito or "figure weft", since the weft is what forms the design.
Enuki Hakata
Another Hakata-based pattern. The basic weave is plain weave, twill weave or satin weave with silk yarn. The design is formed by the weft as in
leno, but is tied off in the back with a warp. This is slightly more complicated than
leno, but done in the same fashion.
Kurume-gasuri
This is a kimono pattern that was developed by an unknown young girl in the 1800s and then promoted by the Kurume prefecture. It comes in many different patterns, but all have an
indigo background and white patterns. Usually this is done with a satin or rib warp weave.