In at least one way the
Puerto Rican resembles a
Frenchman. While either is eating
lunch he is planning and talking about
dinner. Early in my stay on the island I was struck with the
sensuous delight most Puerto Ricans dig in. The influence of the
United States is every where in the kitchen, but most
cooks are proud of their
cocina criolla ( =
native cooking).
Puerto Rican food has distinctive flavors created with some combination of
garlic,
cinnamon,
cloves,
lime, fresh
ginger and a special kind of
orange called
naranja ágria ( = bitter orange). Wedded to these is a preference for the flavor of
culantro ( =
coriander leaves) and
oregano. Any time you buy
culantro, the store will invariably add a handful of
ajies dulces, which look like tiny pumpkins or cherries but taste a bit like pepper.
The most
distinctive flavor, however, is created with the judicious use of a
sofrito, which, as far as I know, is an untranslatable word that refers to this mixture of seasonings. Many households have their own secret recipes for it.
Before sane
nutrition hit the
island,
achiote sauteed in lard, ran a close second to
sofrito as the predominate flavoring. Of course, the
seeds are
discarded and the
lard used to
color and flavor other dishes. Today other shortenings are used and the mixture can be purchased in stores as
achiotina. The flavor is quite
distinctive and undescribable.
The
productos troplicales ( = tropical produce) give enormous variety to the menu. The most versatile are the many kinds of
banana. The favorite is the
plátano ( = plantain) which can be fried, baked, boiled or roasted. The fairly ripe ones are sliced down the middle and stuffed with ground and seasoned meat. The green ones can be sliced thin and deep fried to make something resembling a potato chip. If you fry green ones, smash them and refry, you'll have
tostones. You can also mash them and
drizzle them into deep fat to make
arañitas ( = little
spiders). They can be layered with ground meat to make a
piñon or sliced and wrapped around ground meat in
piononos
There are many
root vegetables, whose names I know only in
Spanish. They have a slight resemblence to the potato, but vary widely in
flavor and
texture. Probably the little
yautía ( = dasheen), which come in at least two colors, is the favorite. Some people won't eat
malanga because it is considered "slave food."
Yuca ( = cassava ) is frequently dressed with
olive oil and lots of
garlic. I love ñame primarily because it's one of the few words I know in Spanish that begin with ñ. And don't forget the
batata ( = white sweet potato), which defies description. It's so sweet that it can be used in making desserts. Technically
panapén ( =
breadfruit) isn't a root vegetable, but it, like the others, is a starchy vegetable (well, fruit, actually). The breadfruit has been saddled with the same
prejudice as
malanga. It is considered "slave food" and beneath notice in some kitchens.
With all these sources of starch, you'd think there'd be no need for another one, but rice is the starch of choice (which is also served with a root vegetable). Ordinarily the rice is "wedded" to some kind of
bean. The classic with rice is the
kidney beans, but at Christmas rice is always served with
gandules ( =
pigeon peas). Rice is added to a stew to make
asopao ( = souped up?) and rice with chicken is a classic. A day without rice is like a day without E2.
To cook the most festive dish of Puerto Rico, you will first need a
shovel! Dig a pit and roast a pig! The secret is the
basting with the juice of the bitter orange and some achiote coloring. Other basting ingredients frequently include a combination of
garlic,
vinegar,
lime juice,
olive oil and the
ajies dulces, mentioned above.
We are always eating -- at home and in the streets. For street wear I'd suggest
Bacalaítos fritos ( = codfish fritters) or the popular
pastelillos ( = deep-fried cheese and meat turn-overs) They are flaky and are guaranteed to get crumbs down the front. You don't find
alcapurrias so much any more because they are so labor intensive. They are made with ground
plátano and
yautía and stuffed with ground
beef or
pork. Some
gringos complain that one
alcapurria will put your stomach into distress for hours. It's a bum rap!
In a
climate such as Puerto Rico you are always thirsty and there are 100s of
refrescos ( = refreshing
beverages) which are used to quench the thirst:
pineapple,
mango,
coconut,
papaya and
tamarindo = (a lemon-like juice made by soaking the seeds of a tree pod) are well worth trying. There are unusual beverages as well, like the slightly fermented
mabí which is made from the bark of a tree. Once you get past the smell, reminiscent of
garbage, it's quite refreshing. Or the drink made from ground sesame
seeds that has the feel of
grit in the
mouth.
Finally the dessert -- all sweet and smooth
puddings. Almost everyone has tried a
flan or
custard, but the
natilla is even a smoother version. If you like the flavor of coconut there is a
tembleque pudding for you. Another coconut flavored pudding is
Arróz con dulce, which is made of cooked
rice and coconut cream, sugar and cinnamon. For a country pudding
majarete is just the thing. In Puerto Rico it is made with rice flour, but the
Dominican Republic does a down-to-
earth version with fine
corn meal. You also can get various
fruits cooked in heavy sugar syrup and served with a white, somewhat salty, cheese.
The Puerto Rican coffee is world famous. It is double roasted and brewed until a spoon will stand up in it. You can order a
pocillo (black in demi-tasse) or the more
popular café-con-leche, served with hot
milk. I was instantly
addicted after my first cup some 30 years ago.
As they say on the island
buen provecho. They figure you have a good appeite so they wish that all you eat will be nourishing.