The Following is a List of Darkroom Techniques for
Black and White Photography and a brief description of each of the techniques
Vignetting:
Allowing only certain parts of the
negative to project on to the paper at a time so as to combine images, also known as
Combination printing.
Print Dying:
Dying the whole print a certain color using
chemicals. Creates a particularly artistic look with Black and White photographs.
Tone-line:
A technique using
lith film to create an interesting,
hand drawn look. This is done by lighting the paper and print from a 45 degree angle.
Dodging:
Covering over certain parts of an image to either leave it for printing later or give it less
exposure than the rest of the print.
Liquid Emulsion:
A substance which, in essence, makes any surface into photo paper. When an object, such as an
egg, is coated with liquid emulsion, it can then be exposed under an enlarger. When it is developed normally, a picture will form on the object.
Photograms:
The technique of placing objects between the enlarger head and a piece of photo paper in order to reproduce shadows of those same shapes on the paper to form interesting patterns.
Bas-relief:
Stacking two negatives in the negative holder a little skewed in relation to each other in order to create an image that looks
embossed.
Multiple Printing:
Combining a number of pictures to create one whole print, often surreal, sometimes downright weird. One of the most well known users of this technique is
Jerry Uelsmann.
Sandwich Printing:
"Sandwiching" two negatives for an interesting effect. The lower of the negatives will only show on the final print in areas where the upper negative is completely clear (i.e. black in print).
Hand Coloring:
This can either be done in the negative stage or in the final print. One can use many different mediums to achieve a variety of effects. For example,
watercoloring a print will create a more
pastel, soft look whereas
oil will create a more vivid print.
Montage:
In effect, gluing two prints together by filing the print in the foreground down to the point where it is not noticable when it is glued on to the background print.
(
KP's Note: Granted, most of this stuff can be done in
Photoshop, but I like my darkroom and it's a better sense of accomplishment when you've done the work yourself)