And the only thing about it that's still Italian is the food - Bova's (I think that's the name) on Salem St. is open 24 hours and has great food cheap, something you can't find anywhere else in the neighborhood.

Even five years ago most of the landlords (if not most of the residents) were still old school Italians, and you could find a reasonably priced (though small) apartment if you looked hard enough. Now most of the landlords (actually landladies) have sold out to cash in on the hot housing market, or simply came to the clearing at the end of the path. It's currently filled with yuppies who work in the nearby financial district and college students.