The first thing to consider when cooking the perfect omelette is the size of the frying pan. Too few eggs in a large frying pan will make a thin, dry and tough omelette. Too many eggs in a small pan will result in a spongy omelette. A two egge omelette, for instance, requires a 15cm pan. An omelette made from 4 or 5 eggs needs a 25 cm pan.

On no account should you over-beat the eggs. Do not use a whisk (especialy an electric one). A fork is fine or even a knife will do.

Next, season the eggs with salt and freshly ground pepper. Put your pan on a medium heat and allow it to warm though. Do not put anything in it yet (if you are using butter this pre-heating of the pan prevents the butter from being on the heat too long and browning.)

When the pan is hot, throw in a large knob of butter (no oil), then turn the heat up to its highest setting and swirl the butter round and round until it has melted and coats the pan entirely.

When the butter begins to froth add the beaten eggs and spread them out evenly over the pan, then, using a fork, begin to draw the edges of the omlette toward the centre of the pan and allow the pools of liquid egg to run into the channels you have made.

When the omelette is almost set, but still slightly soft and liquid (baveuse, as the French say) fold it in half and slide it onto a plate.

The nicest omelettes are, of course, the simplest, so use very little filling, if any at all. Perhaps some herbs.